Author Archives: Shmuel Browns

Unknown's avatar

About Shmuel Browns

I am a tour guide, licensed by the Israel Ministry of Tourism. I do tours throughout Israel, personalized to your interests, time and budget.

Expert Travel Recommendations Israel

I was contacted for an article in a UK magazine on travel to Israel. This is what they say about Israel:

Get the insiders’ guide to Israel from those who know it best. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. But if you can’t get it, then the second best thing is to borrow someone else’s. And when it comes to knowing Israel, you won’t find experts with more expertise than ours – take a look at why they love Israel. With its long history, melting pot of cultures, religious heritage and cosmopolitan cities, Israel is an unforgettable destination.

They asked a series of questions and wanted my recommendations.

Favorite place to stay, a city/rural town or village rather than a specific hotel?
The two favourite places to stay while in Israel are Tel Aviv and Jerusalem but I would suggest something different. Since the Negev desert in the south makes up 60% of Israel’s land area, I think you should stay a few nights there and what could be more appropriate than the new hotel in Mitzpe Ramon on the edge of the large Ramon crater, a geological formation unique to this area. To explore, take a jeep tour into the crater and at night, away from the lights of the big cities, gaze  up at the stars and learn to identify the constellations with a guide.

Favorite place to eat, a restaurant and what you would recommend from the menu?
For a special experience I would recommend Uri Buri, a homey seafood restaurant in Acre, near the lighthouse, facing the Mediterranean Sea. What makes Uri Buri stand out are his unique dishes, based on interesting combinations of ingredients, for example, sashimi with carmelized beets and wasabi sorbet. The best way to go is to make a reservation, invite some friends and share the tasting menu (ask the waiter/waitress for local Israeli wine recommendations).

Best view?
To get an overview of the Old City of Jerusalem, within the 16th century Ottoman Turkish walls, you need to get high and the best view is by climbing 177 steps to the top of the bell tower (height about 40 meters) on the Church of the Redeemer with its 360 degree view of the city. While you’re there visit to the excavations under the church and the small museum.
Recommended excursion for visitors to Israel?
A day trip to the Dead Sea and Judean desert where you can combine history and nature. Visit Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered or Masada, KIng Herod’s fortified palaces on the top of a mountain. Take a hike in the Ein Gedi nature reserve, one of two natural springs in the Judean desert and enjoy a dip in freshwater pools under the cascade of a waterfall. Hopefully you will see ibex, a kind of mountain goat, native to the area. End the day at one of the spa/beaches for a float in the therapeutic waters of the Dead Sea, the lowest place on earth.

Hidden gem?
Not far from Eilat is the Red Canyon, a colorful gem of a hike for the whole family where you slide down chutes and climb down ladders of a narrow canyon with purple, orange and pink sandstone sculpted walls.

Best way to spend a day in Israel?
Drive the Jordan valley, part of the Great African Rift, visit the archaeological site at Bet Shean, have lunch of St Peter’s fish overlooking the Sea of Galillee, visit Capernaum, with a 4th century synagogue and the house where Peter lived and Jesus preached, later a church. From there drive to the Mediterranean coastal town of Jaffa. At dinner time choose a restaurant on the boardwalk overlooking the sea and watch the sunset.

To see all this and more it’s worth using an expert guide, you’ll enjoy yourself more.

Photo of the Week – Poleg beach

Israel has a Mediterranean coastline of 187 kilometres from Rosh HaNikra, the border with Lebanon in the north to Gaza in the south,  with some very nice beaches. Israeli photographer, David Rubinger, says that when you want to take a photo the best camera is the one you have with you. This photo is from the cliffs behind Wingate just south of Netanya, taken with my iPhone.

Beach Wingate

You can click on the image for a larger view (which may take some time to load depending on your Internet connection). Please share this post with your friends on social media.

Photographs on this website are © Shmuel Browns (unless marked otherwise) – if you are interested in purchasing one of my photos or using one of my photos for your own project please contact me.

Crusader Jerusalem

A reader asked me to post something about the Crusaders in Jerusalem. I am happy to and also to lead tours focussing on the Crusader period.

Raymond of Aguilers, who wrote a chronicle of the First Crusade (1096–1099), relates that on the morning of June 7, 1099, the Crusaders reached the summit of Nebi Samuel, from which they saw Jerusalem for the first time. The elated Crusaders fell to the ground and wept with joy, calling it Mons Gaudi, mount of joy. The same day they reached the walls of Jerusalem.

Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph as Crusader

With insufficient troops and supplies and rumor of a Fatimid advance, the Crusaders could not besiege the city for long but had to organize a direct assault.  After about a month they were able to get skilled builders and wood by cannibalizing Genoan ships that had arrived at Jaffa port for siege towers. This enabled the Crusaders to breach the walls in 3 places on July 15th. The Crusaders massacred most of the Muslims and Jews and evicted the remainder leaving Jerusalem almost uninhabited until Christians could be encouraged to settle there. On 22 July, a council was held in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher that chose Godfrey as the princeps for the newly created Kingdom of Jerusalem which became an important Christian center.

Crusader sites in Jerusalem

In 1160 the Crusaders added a glacis to the tower at the Citadel and dug a moat around it.

The Roman Cardo was subdivided into 3 covered markets: Vegetable or Spice market, Market of Malcuisinat and Covered market – this property was donated to the convent at Santa Anna. Nearby along David St. today, was the poultry market selling eggs, milk, cheese.

The Crusaders built a church in Kidron valley that contained the Tomb to the VIrgin Mary  and Queen Melisende was buried there. Beside it was Gethsemane and a Barluzzi church in 1920s was built on earlier Byzantine and Crusader ruins.

The remains of the Church of Mary of Latina can be seen in part of the German Lutheran Church of Redeemer that was dedicated in 1898 during the German Kaiser’s visit.

Capitals outside German Lutheran church

Close by is the Church of Holy Sepulcher, rebuilt by the Crusaders and dedicated in 1149. The sculpted marble panels on lintels over the two main doors, in Romanesque style, are now in the Rockefeller museum.

Ascension of Jesus Crusader mosaicOn the ceiling of the Catholic Chapel of the Nailing to the Cross (11th station) is a 12th-century medallion of the Ascension of Jesus — the only surviving Crusader mosaic in the building. Small geometric-shaped pieces of marble inlaid in the floor is a style known as Cosmati or Cosmatesque a traditional technique from the Crusader period though it was done when the chapel was renovated in 1937 by Barluzzi.

There are Hospitaler sites in the Muristan and German knights in the Jewish quarter, remains of a hospice, hospital and church, St. Mary of Germans.

Up on the Haram el-Sharif, the Knights Templar, used the Al Dome of AscensionAqsa mosque, called Templum Solomonis by the Crusaders, and the underground arches of Solomon’s stables. The Dome of the Rock functioned as a church, Templum Domini. A short distance to the northwest, is the Dome of the Ascension, which served as its baptistery. The Dome of the Chain to the east was a Christian chapel to St. James.

If you have the chance, visit the Temple Mount Sifting Project to try some hands-on archaeology and take the opportunity to see artifacts like arrowheads, coins and relics from the Crusader period.

At Bethesda Pools is the ruins of a Crusader chapel, Mary of Bethesda, built on the ruins of a much larger Byzantine church from the 5th century named for St. Mary (Church of the Probatica) and the Church of Santa Anna, one of the most exquisite examples of Crusader architecture in the country.

Santa Anna

On Mount Zion, the German Dormition Abbey was built on the ruins of the Crusader church of St Mary of Mount Zion which includes an upstairs room which can be visited today, the Coenaculum or Room of the Last Supper.

The Crusaders built many buildings which affected the city’s image, adding a Christian flavor to the 450 year old Muslim city and many of these changes can still be seen in the Old City today.

Photo of the Week – Negev Brigade Monument

On a hill to the east of the city of Beersheba in the Negev desert is a monument in concrete by Israeli sculptor, Dani Karavan. The memorial is to the soldiers of the Palmach’s Negev Brigade who died in the 1948 Arab Israeli war. This photo is a closeup of one of the 18 sculptural parts that make up the monument, a tunnel that appears as a spiral of rectangles – someone had left an Israeli flag on the floor.

Negev Brigade monument, by Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan

The technical details – the photo was taken with a Nikon E4300, a digital point and shoot camera in March (ISO 100, 8mm, F2.8 at 1/37 sec).

Photographs on this website are © Shmuel Browns (unless marked otherwise) – if you are interested in purchasing one of my photos or using one of my photos for your own project please contact me.

Yom HaZikaron to Yom HaAtzmaut

Today is Yom HaAtzmaut, when we celebrate Israel’s independence and Ben Gurion’s declaration establishing the state of Israel. State of Israel

Yom HaZikaron, where we remember our fallen soldiers, is the day before Yom HaAtzmaut. Israel is the only country I know that puts these two days together.

In Israel’s wars, 23,085 soldiers have died and there isn’t an individual or family in Israel that hasn’t lost a loved one or doesn’t knows someone who has lost someone. As throughout Israel we observe Yom HaZikaron I think every parent, at some point, thinks about their children serving in the Israel Defence Forces.

Med+Heli

Four of our children serve in the IDF, our oldest is serving for 6 years as an officer in Intelligence and 3  serve in combat units. As part of their training, the three did the paratroopers course and jumped from a Hercules transport plane, parachuting onto the sands at Palmachim. When your child does his first jump, it’s a tradition for families to drive to Palmachim to be there when he lands.

Parachutes from Hercules

Returning from jump

The sand, is swept all the way from Nubia in Africa, down the Nile river and then along the Mediterranean coast to Israel’s beaches.

Sand lily While at the beach at Palmachim I noticed a very striking, white flowering plant, the Sand Lily (Pancratium maritimum), also known as the sea daffodil. The Hebrew name for the flower is חבצלת החוף which most people think is the flower mentioned in Song of Songs 2:1 I am the rose of Sharon, a lily of the valleys, the Sharon plain being on the Mediterranean coast. The flowers have a pleasing, exotic and very subtle lily scent, which you only notice during still, windless summer nights. Interestingly, the plant must be cross-pollinated by a specific hawk-moth (Agrius convolvuli) which only visits the flower when there is a light breeze, a wind speed under 2 metres per second. Sprinkled on the sand around the plants were its flat, black seeds which I collected.

The seeds have just sprouted in our garden in Jerusalem. Hopefully they will grow and bloom in about 4 years, at about the same time our youngest completes his army service.

Photo of the Week – Golan

You begin to experience the Golan hikes as soon as you begin climbing the serpentine highway from the Sea of Galilee (212 meters below sea level) to the basaltic plateau at an average height of 1000 meters above sea level created by volcanic eruption 4 million years ago. There is a nice overlook above Hamat Gader and you can see the Yarmuk river meandering below. When taking photographs it is always worth looking around, especially what is behind you. Instead of a photo down into valley I took this photo of the heights behind us.

Golan

The technical details – the photo was taken with a Nikon digital SLR camera and 18-200mm lens in April (ISO 200, 20mm, F10 at 1/250 sec).

Photographs on this website are © Shmuel Browns (unless marked otherwise) – if you are interested in purchasing one of my photos or using one of my photos for your own project please contact me.