Here’s a list of special tours that I do in Jerusalem and they are reasonably priced just US $250 per tour, up to 5 people & clients pay their own entrance fees:
Navigating Jerusalem’s Old City
Crusaders in Jerusalem
Architecture of Antonio Barluzzi’s Amazing Churches
Temple Mount/Haram el Sharif
King David’s city – Jerusalem 3000 years ago
Photographing Jerusalem
Israel’s World-class Museum (with me as your guide)
These 5 half day tours are not far from Jerusalem, about 1/2 hour drive and transportation is charged at $50, up to 3 people:
After our exploration of the archaeological park at Mount Gerizim we had the idea that it would be VERY COOL to also visit Mount Ebal where Joshua built an altar of fieldstones as commanded by God through Moses – they do go together in the Biblical text, the Mount of Blessings and Mount of Curses (see Deuteronomy 27, chapters ראה and כי תבוא and Book of Joshua 8:30-34). So that evening I sat down at the computer to figure out how we could do it. But whereas Mount Gerizim is part of the Israeli Parks Authority, Mount Ebal is something completely different — hiking in this area of Samaria requires mandatory coordination and an armed IDF escort for security which should be arranged through the field school at Shavei Shomron who can also help with logistics. So I checked the field school website and by chance there was a hike planned to Mount Ebal in 2 days time and Alan & I did it.
Day 1: Kabir to the Roof of Ebal
Mount Kabir, the Great Mountain
The Big Drop: Launching from Mount Kabir, at 792 meters hikers undergo a striking, tech-heavy descent dropping over 550 vertical meters into the limestone fault lines of the Tirzah watershed.
The Oasis: Bidan Springs serves as a lush canyon baseline. The route snakes through local concrete aqueduct lines where you can stand directly underneath chilly mountain cascades.
The Wall: From the pools, you face a brutal 700-vertical-meter wall climbing up Ebal’s northern flanks. You will pass the massive stone layout of an Iron Age 1 structure Joshua’s Altar discovered by ָAdam Zertal in his comprehensive survey in 1980 and subsequent excavations over 8 seasons.
Zertal’s excavations uncovered a ramp leading up to a square altar, a surrounding enclosure, and deep ash layers containing the burnt bones of kosher animals, as outlined in the Biblical and Mishnaic descriptions of an Israelite altar. Pottery discovered at the site was dated to the time of Joshua. Additionally, two ancient Egyptian scarabs were found from the time of Ramses II, who most historians agree was the Pharoah of the Exodus.
From there we continued climbing to 940 m to reach the wind-whipped military outpost and campsite on the ridge.
Day 2: Ridge-lines, Fire, and Valleys
Nablus Views & Pines: Wake up to birds-eye lookouts straight down into the historical Shechem valley. The route plunges off the high limestone cliffs into the shaded, peaceful pine trails of the British Forest.
Modern Nablus/Biblical Shehem between Mount Ebal & Gerizim
The Elijah Monument: The trail climbs up a lonely, wind-swept peak to reach Khirbet esh-Sheikh Sha’aleh at 714m.
Here, hikers can explore Byzantine stone barrel-vault chambers and Crusader architectural ruins. The hill is riddled with rock-cut features, including massive water cisterns, underground grain silos, and complex agricultural presses (olive and wine) cut directly into the mountain bedrock. Local traditions link the Arabic name of the ruin (Sha’aleh “The Flame”) to the scriptural events of 2 Kings 1-17, where the prophet Elijah famously called down supernatural fire from heaven that consumed the military captain and his 50 men sent twice by King Ahaziah of Samaria.
13 So the king sent a third captain with his fifty men. This third captain went up and fell on his knees before Elijah. “Man of God,” he begged, “please have respect for my life and the lives of these fifty men, your servants! 14 See, fire has fallen from heaven and consumed the first two captains and all their men. But now have respect for my life!” 15 The angel of the Lord said to Elijah, “Go down with him; do not be afraid of him.” So Elijah got up and went down with him to the king.
To the Finish: The trail breaks down into the open valley floor, guiding hikers through old olive groves for a cool swim in the deep stone pool of Ein al-Harun 345m, before one last brief uphill finish to the field school at Shavei Shomron.
Expedition Summary Statistics
Total Cumulative Distance: ~36.5 Kilometers (22.7 Miles)
What do we know about the ancient cemetery associated with the community at Qumran?
The cemetery was first excavated by the archaeologist Roland de Vaux, who excavated the Qumran site and caves from 1949-1956. Over time, more and more graves excavated by past expeditions were discovered. Recently, when it was decided to open new access paths in the national park, a new excavation was conducted led by Evgeny Aharonovich from the Staff Officer for Archaeology/SOA (note, Qumran is located in the West Bank, the archaeologist works for SOA->unit within Civil Administration->under COGAT->under Israel Defence Ministry). Its results and significance were presented at the recent conference “Archaeology and Site Conservation in Judea and Samaria”.
First, there is a question and debate over the nature of the Qumran site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. The consensus is that the scrolls were written by a group that called itself “Yahad,” which lived a highly rigid communal and ascetic lifestyle, and believed in a cataclysmic war between the Sons of Light (them) against the Sons of Darkness (not them), during which they planned to take over the Temple in Jerusalem and reconstitute a new Judaism. Actually all the scrolls were found in caves around the site and not at the site itself – in fact it is estimated that the site could not accommodate more than a few dozen people. Judging by the large number of scrolls, more than 930 and small number of people we can ask what is the connection between the site and the scrolls? And who are the people who wrote them?
Twin Caves at Qumran
There are four other theories: 1) Qumran was a secular winter estate for a wealthy family from Jerusalem, 2) site served primarily as a Hasmonean or Roman military outpost guarding the borders, 3) an industrial hub, serving as an agricultural date-palm or even afarsimon estate and a regional commercial pottery facility, over 1,000 intact ceramic vessels were found—including bowls, plates, drinking cups, jugs, and cooking pots 4) the 900+ scrolls suggest a broad national collection. the rescued contents of archives from theTemple in Jerusalem. Other objects that were found include over 1,200 coins spanning from the Hasmonean period (130 BCE) through the Jewish Revolt (68 CE), including a notable hoard of silver Tyrian shekels; tiny Phylacteries; the Copper Scroll found in Cave 3, a mysterious treasure map listing 64 underground hiding locations across Israel filled with gold and silver temple artifacts;
Copper Scroll on display at Jordan Museum, Amman
Since the days of Prof. Sukenik, who deciphered the first scrolls discovered by Beduin shepherds and sold to a shoemaker and antiquities dealer Kando in Bethlehem there were researchers who identified the people of the “Yahad” with the Essenes described by Josephus. Among the Essenes there were no women—people joined the Essenes when they grew weary of the sinful life of the world. On the other hand, the scrolls actually deal extensively with women.
From this excavation of the cemetery we learn that this is a planned cemetery, the area is 2.5 times the size of the inhabited site, the graves are arranged in straight rows. In the past, excavations in the cemetery did not successfully separate the “original” graves from the graves of the Bedouins who continued to bury in the cemetery making it more difficult to identify.
Aharonovich was able to show the characteristic type of the Qumran grave—a sort of small “chamber” located at the bottom of a shaft. Rock piles (cairns/tumuli) were erected above the shaft. In one of the graves, the excavators even discovered a deceased individual who was interred inside a wooden coffin at the bottom of a shaft. Granted, the coffin itself was not found—but the wooden nails that connected the parts of the coffin were discovered on site. Where did the wood come from? After all, there is no suitable material in the vicinity of Qumran. Even stranger, the remains of a metal lock and door hinges were also discovered in that same coffin.
Researchers found that there are graves where several people were buried together. And here is the most fascinating twist: out of 35 skeletons discovered during thislatest excavation, 31 skeletons were definitively identified as male skeletons, only one skeleton as female—this isupports the sectarian nature of the Qumran settlement. The gender distribution matches the historical description by Josephus, according to which women were not allowed to join the group.
An explanation must still be sought for the appearance of that single deceased female discovered in the new excavation. And also for 15 additional women identified in previous excavations dating back to the days of de Vaux. Researchers’ conclusion is that since men constitute the majority (about 85%) of those buried in the cemetery, it appears that the site was populated by males and likely a religious, ascetic sect. Anyone among Qumran researchers who continue to hold the view that the site was not the home of a sect will now have to work very hard to explain this definitive data on the gender distribution in the cemetery.
Archaeological discoveries over the years strongly suggest the presence of women at the site—the following items were found in graves of women: earrings, bead necklaces and anklets, rings and pendants; spindle whorl for spinning wool or flax into thread was found within the Qumran settlement—a domestic task traditionally associated with women in the ancient Near East; small cosmetic and perfume bottles (unguentaria) were recovered from the site, these were heavily associated with women’s grooming and purification rituals In Second Temple Judea.
Whenever I drive down to Dead Sea I try to stop at the Inn of the Good Samaritan to see how they’re doing. To encourage tourist buses coming back from the Dead Sea the government even built an overpass to give access to the site but not enough people visit. If you’re interested I’d be happy to drive you down there and show you around, just click on the Whatsapp button on bottom-right of screen.
To see a short video of COGAT discovering the mosaic after it was offered for sale on Facebook click on Play
Mosaic floor found under a house in JiflikMosaic floor of 6th C Byzantine church in situ in JiflikWell-preserved mosaic floor of an ancient Byzantine church uncovered in Jiflik, West Bank. (photo credit: COGAT SPOKESPERSON’S UNIT)
Ater the mosaic floor was moved for safekeeping and installed at Good Samaritan I got to work at the site with Mahmoud who is a very experienced conservator on the mosaics.
Are you looking for a destination that packs dramatic desert landscapes, lush wetlands, and world-class wildlife photography into a single work week? Look no further than Israel.
As a licensed tour guide and photographer, I am constantly amazed by the sheer density of visual stories this country offers. Nestled along the Syrian-African Rift Valley, Israel serves as a global superhighway for avian migration. Twice a year, over 500 million birds pass through our skies. Combined with geological wonders found nowhere else on earth, it is a dream canvas for landscape and wildlife photographers alike.
If you have clients eager to capture raw nature, raptors, and massive flocks of water birds, here is my curated, 5-day photography expedition blueprint.
Day 1: The Surreal Salt of the Dead Sea
The Landscape: Crystalline salt formations, turquoise waters, and dramatic sinkholes.
The Wildlife: Look up to find the desert-dwelling Nubian Ibex navigating the cliffs, and listen for the distinct call of Tristram’s Starlings.
Pro-Tip for Guides: The Dead Sea is changing rapidly. Accessing the most photogenic, geometric salt formations requires deep local knowledge of safe, accessible paths. Plan for a sunrise shoot when the light reflects off the water like a mirror.
Day 2: The Mighty Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon)
The Landscape: This is not a meteor crater or a volcanic remnant—it is a makhtesh, a rare geological landform created by erosion, unique to the Negev Desert. The multicolored rock strata offer endless wide-angle opportunities.
The Wildlife: The sheer cliffs of the crater are thermal updraft highways for majestic raptors. Keep your telephoto lens ready for Griffon Vultures, Bonelli’s Eagles, and Lanner Falcons.
Pro-Tip for Guides: Set up your group at the crater rim during the late afternoon. The golden hour illuminates the red and orange sandstone walls, while raptors glide effortlessly at eye level.
Day 3: Avian Extravaganza at Agamon Hula
The Landscape: A lush, green wetland basin surrounded by the rising peaks of the Galilee and the Golan Heights.
The Wildlife: This is the crown jewel for bird photographers. Depending on the season, you will face tens of thousands of Common Cranes, Great White Pelicans, and massive varieties of large water birds, alongside hunting raptors like the Greater Spotted Eagle.
Pro-Tip for Guides: Book the specialized “Photographer’s Wagon” well in advance. This hidden mobile blind allows you to pull right into the middle of the feeding cranes at dawn, capturing stunning mist-covered morning takeoffs without disturbing the wildlife.
Day 4: The Hidden Oases of Ein Avdat
The Landscape: A deep, winding limestone canyon carved into the Negev Desert, featuring a striking desert waterfall and thriving freshwater pools.
The Wildlife: The towering white chalk cliffs serve as crucial nesting grounds for Egyptian Vultures and other birds of prey.
Pro-Tip for Guides: This hike offers fantastic opportunities to play with high-contrast photography—the bright sun hitting the white canyon rims against the deep, cool shadows of the gorge creates stunning geometric compositions.
Day 5: Eilat’s Flaming Canyons & Flyways
The Landscape: Conclude the tour by contrasting the narrow, swirling red sandstone walls of the Red Canyon with the coastal wetlands of the Eilat Bird Sanctuary.
The Wildlife: As the final bottleneck before birds cross the vast Sahara, Eilat is teeming with wading water birds, flamingos, and waves of migrating raptors.
• • Pro-Tip for Guides: Use the early morning light at the salt pools to capture reflections of flamingos and shorebirds, then head to the Red Canyon mid-day when the sun reaches deep into the narrow slots to illuminate the red rock.
If you are interested in Rome and 2,000 year old history and archaeology then take a tour of the two Roman Decapolis cities in Israel: Sussita or ancient Hippos (both words mean horse) a mixed city of Jews, Christians and pagans sitting on a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the areas of Jesus’ ministry and Beit Shean, ancient Scythopolis but a city that goes back in time much farther, more than 18 layers of occupation from the late Neolithic period (fifth millennium BCE) through medieval times. Both cities were “stopped in their tracks” in 749CE by a massive area earthquake that destroyed both cities and froze them in time (think Pompei). The cities of the Decapolis minted their own coins, enjoyed Roman military protection, and celebrated a lifestyle focused on public baths, theater, philosophy, and Greek pagan worship. If you love walking through colonnaded Roman streets, exploring massive amphitheaters, and diving into ancient history, these two travel highlights belong on your bucket list.
Sussita (Hippos)
Located on a flat-topped diamon-shaped mountain to the east of the Sea of Galilee, this site was a prominent member of the Decapolis. It offers a slightly more rugged, archaeological hiking experience with stunning views.
🌊 The Vibe: A dramatic, wind-swept archaeological site overlooking the water, far away from the heavy tourist crowds.
🐎 What to See:
The Decumanus Maximus: The main east-west basalt-paved colonnaded street stretching across the mountain crest that leads to a small a small Roman theater or Odeon
The Forum and Hellenistic Temple: The civic heart of the city where citizens worshipped and conducted trade.
Byzantine Churches: Remarkable ruins of 7 early Christian churches featuring surviving floor mosaics.
The Water system based on an aquaduct that brought water 25km from Nahal El Al – learn the technology that got the water up to the city
📜 New Testament Context: Because Hippos was perched so prominently on a hill, many scholars believe it was the visual inspiration behind Jesus’s famous Sermon on the Mount metaphor: “A city set on a hill cannot be hidden.”
Because these were primarily Gentile areas, Jesus famously traveled here to minister—most notably exorcising demons from man in nearby Kursi and transferring the demons to a herd of pigs that stampeded down the slope into the lake and drowned.
Beit She’an (Scythopolis)
Located at the strategic intersection of the Jordan River Valley and Jezreel Valley, it bridged Mediterranean trade routes to Transjordan and was the single largest, most powerful, and only member of the Decapolis located west of the Jordan River.
🏛️ The Vibe: An ancient Roman metropolis showcase of luxury, advanced civil engineering, and public entertainment.
🎭 What to See:
The Roman Theater: A beautifully preserved, 7,000-seat theater that still hosts modern performances.
Palladius Street: A breathtaking, marble-paved colonnaded thoroughfare lined with ancient shops and intricate mosaics and the columns were discovered exactly where they fell during the earthquake.
The Roman Bathhouse: A massive complex complete with underfloor heating systems (hypocausts) where citizens socialized.
📜 Biblical Context: Long before the Romans, this was where the Philistines hung the body of King Saul. It reached its golden architectural heights under Rome, before a catastrophic earthquake completely leveled the city in 749 CE.
Pro-Tip for your Itinerary: If your travel plans allow, consider crossing into neighboring Jordan, which also holds a number of Decapolis cities, perhaps the most famous and best-preserved is Gerasa , modern Jerash, which is just a 1-hour drive across the border from Israel and an absolute must-see for Roman history enthusiasts.
