Category Archives: Nature

Hiking Samaria to Mount Ebal: Experiencing Biblical History & Epic Views

After our exploration of the archaeological park at Mount Gerizim we had the idea that it would be VERY COOL to also visit Mount Ebal where Joshua built an altar of fieldstones as commanded by God through Moses – they do go together in the Biblical text, the Mount of Blessings and Mount of Curses (see Deuteronomy 27, chapters ראה and כי תבוא and Book of Joshua 8:30-34). So that evening I sat down at the computer to figure out how we could do it. But whereas Mount Gerizim is part of the Israeli Parks Authority, Mount Ebal is something completely different — hiking in this area of Samaria requires mandatory coordination and an armed IDF escort for security which should be arranged through the field school at Shavei Shomron who can also help with logistics. So I checked the field school website and by chance there was a hike planned to Mount Ebal in 2 days time and Alan & I did it.

Day 1: Kabir to the Roof of Ebal

Mount Kabir, the Great Mountain

The Big Drop: Launching from Mount Kabir, at 792 meters hikers undergo a striking, tech-heavy descent dropping over 550 vertical meters into the limestone fault lines of the Tirzah watershed.

The Oasis: Bidan Springs serves as a lush canyon baseline. The route snakes through local concrete aqueduct lines where you can stand directly underneath chilly mountain cascades.

The Wall: From the pools, you face a brutal 700-vertical-meter wall climbing up Ebal’s northern flanks. You will pass the massive stone layout of an Iron Age 1 structure Joshua’s Altar discovered by ָAdam Zertal in his comprehensive survey in 1980 and subsequent excavations over 8 seasons.

Zertal’s excavations uncovered a ramp leading up to a square altar, a surrounding enclosure, and deep ash layers containing the burnt bones of kosher animals, as outlined in the Biblical and Mishnaic descriptions of an Israelite altar. Pottery discovered at the site was dated to the time of Joshua. Additionally, two ancient Egyptian scarabs were found from the time of Ramses II, who most historians agree was the Pharoah of the Exodus.

From there we continued climbing to 940 m to reach the wind-whipped military outpost and campsite on the ridge.

Day 2: Ridge-lines, Fire, and Valleys

Nablus Views & Pines: Wake up to birds-eye lookouts straight down into the historical Shechem valley. The route plunges off the high limestone cliffs into the shaded, peaceful pine trails of the British Forest.

Modern Nablus/Biblical Shehem between Mount Ebal & Gerizim

The Elijah Monument: The trail climbs up a lonely, wind-swept peak to reach Khirbet esh-Sheikh Sha’aleh at 714m.

Here, hikers can explore Byzantine stone barrel-vault chambers and Crusader architectural ruins. The hill is riddled with rock-cut features, including massive water cisterns, underground grain silos, and complex agricultural presses (olive and wine) cut directly into the mountain bedrock. Local traditions link the Arabic name of the ruin (Sha’aleh “The Flame”) to the scriptural events of 2 Kings 1-17, where the prophet Elijah famously called down supernatural fire from heaven that consumed the military captain and his 50 men sent twice by King Ahaziah of Samaria.

13 So the king sent a third captain with his fifty men. This third captain went up and fell on his knees before Elijah. “Man of God,” he begged, “please have respect for my life and the lives of these fifty men, your servants! 14 See, fire has fallen from heaven and consumed the first two captains and all their men. But now have respect for my life!” 15 The angel of the Lord said to Elijah, “Go down with him; do not be afraid of him.” So Elijah got up and went down with him to the king.

To the Finish: The trail breaks down into the open valley floor, guiding hikers through old olive groves for a cool swim in the deep stone pool of Ein al-Harun 345m, before one last brief uphill finish to the field school at Shavei Shomron.


Expedition Summary Statistics

  • Total Cumulative Distance: ~36.5 Kilometers (22.7 Miles)
  • Total Walking Time: 16 to 19 Hours
  • Overall Elevation Change: ~1,750m Ascent (Day 1) | ~480m Descent (Day 2)

Capturing Israel: The Ultimate 5-Day Photo Safari Itinerary

Are you looking for a destination that packs dramatic desert landscapes, lush wetlands, and world-class wildlife photography into a single work week? Look no further than Israel.

As a licensed tour guide and photographer, I am constantly amazed by the sheer density of visual stories this country offers. Nestled along the Syrian-African Rift Valley, Israel serves as a global superhighway for avian migration. Twice a year, over 500 million birds pass through our skies. Combined with geological wonders found nowhere else on earth, it is a dream canvas for landscape and wildlife photographers alike.

If you have clients eager to capture raw nature, raptors, and massive flocks of water birds, here is my curated, 5-day photography expedition blueprint.

Day 1: The Surreal Salt of the Dead Sea

  • The Landscape: Crystalline salt formations, turquoise waters, and dramatic sinkholes.
  • The Wildlife: Look up to find the desert-dwelling Nubian Ibex navigating the cliffs, and listen for the distinct call of Tristram’s Starlings.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: The Dead Sea is changing rapidly. Accessing the most photogenic, geometric salt formations requires deep local knowledge of safe, accessible paths. Plan for a sunrise shoot when the light reflects off the water like a mirror.

Day 2: The Mighty Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon)

  • The Landscape: This is not a meteor crater or a volcanic remnant—it is a makhtesh, a rare geological landform created by erosion, unique to the Negev Desert. The multicolored rock strata offer endless wide-angle opportunities.
  • The Wildlife: The sheer cliffs of the crater are thermal updraft highways for majestic raptors. Keep your telephoto lens ready for Griffon Vultures, Bonelli’s Eagles, and Lanner Falcons.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: Set up your group at the crater rim during the late afternoon. The golden hour illuminates the red and orange sandstone walls, while raptors glide effortlessly at eye level.

Day 3: Avian Extravaganza at Agamon Hula

  • The Landscape: A lush, green wetland basin surrounded by the rising peaks of the Galilee and the Golan Heights.
  • The Wildlife: This is the crown jewel for bird photographers. Depending on the season, you will face tens of thousands of Common Cranes, Great White Pelicans, and massive varieties of large water birds, alongside hunting raptors like the Greater Spotted Eagle.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: Book the specialized “Photographer’s Wagon” well in advance. This hidden mobile blind allows you to pull right into the middle of the feeding cranes at dawn, capturing stunning mist-covered morning takeoffs without disturbing the wildlife.

Day 4: The Hidden Oases of Ein Avdat

  • The Landscape: A deep, winding limestone canyon carved into the Negev Desert, featuring a striking desert waterfall and thriving freshwater pools.
  • The Wildlife: The towering white chalk cliffs serve as crucial nesting grounds for Egyptian Vultures and other birds of prey.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: This hike offers fantastic opportunities to play with high-contrast photography—the bright sun hitting the white canyon rims against the deep, cool shadows of the gorge creates stunning geometric compositions.

Day 5: Eilat’s Flaming Canyons & Flyways

  • The Landscape: Conclude the tour by contrasting the narrow, swirling red sandstone walls of the Red Canyon with the coastal wetlands of the Eilat Bird Sanctuary.
  • The Wildlife: As the final bottleneck before birds cross the vast Sahara, Eilat is teeming with wading water birds, flamingos, and waves of migrating raptors.

• • Pro-Tip for Guides: Use the early morning light at the salt pools to capture reflections of flamingos and shorebirds, then head to the Red Canyon mid-day when the sun reaches deep into the narrow slots to illuminate the red rock.

Cities of Decapolis in Israel: Ruins of Hippos & Bet She’an

If you are interested in Rome and 2,000 year old history and archaeology then take a tour of the two Roman Decapolis cities in Israel: Sussita or ancient Hippos (both words mean horse) a mixed city of Jews, Christians and pagans sitting on a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the areas of Jesus’ ministry and Beit Shean, ancient Scythopolis but a city that goes back in time much farther, more than 18 layers of occupation from the late Neolithic period (fifth millennium BCE) through medieval times. Both cities were “stopped in their tracks” in 749CE by a massive area earthquake that destroyed both cities and froze them in time (think Pompei). The cities of the Decapolis minted their own coins, enjoyed Roman military protection, and celebrated a lifestyle focused on public baths, theater, philosophy, and Greek pagan worship. If you love walking through colonnaded Roman streets, exploring massive amphitheaters, and diving into ancient history, these two travel highlights belong on your bucket list.

Sussita (Hippos)

Located on a flat-topped diamon-shaped mountain to the east of the Sea of Galilee, this site was a prominent member of the Decapolis. It offers a slightly more rugged, archaeological hiking experience with stunning views.

  • 🌊 The Vibe: A dramatic, wind-swept archaeological site overlooking the water, far away from the heavy tourist crowds.
  • 🐎 What to See:
    • The Decumanus Maximus: The main east-west basalt-paved colonnaded street stretching across the mountain crest that leads to a small a small Roman theater or Odeon
    • The Forum and Hellenistic Temple: The civic heart of the city where citizens worshipped and conducted trade.
    • Byzantine Churches: Remarkable ruins of 7 early Christian churches featuring surviving floor mosaics.
    • The Water system based on an aquaduct that brought water 25km from Nahal El Al – learn the technology that got the water up to the city
  • 📜 New Testament Context: Because Hippos was perched so prominently on a hill, many scholars believe it was the visual inspiration behind Jesus’s famous Sermon on the Mount metaphor: “A city set on a hill cannot be hidden.”

Because these were primarily Gentile areas, Jesus famously traveled here to minister—most notably exorcising demons from man in nearby Kursi and transferring the demons to a herd of pigs that stampeded down the slope into the lake and drowned.

Beit She’an (Scythopolis)

Located at the strategic intersection of the Jordan River Valley and Jezreel Valley, it bridged Mediterranean trade routes to Transjordan and was the single largest, most powerful, and only member of the Decapolis located west of the Jordan River.

  • 🏛️ The Vibe: An ancient Roman metropolis showcase of luxury, advanced civil engineering, and public entertainment.
  • 🎭 What to See:
    • The Roman Theater: A beautifully preserved, 7,000-seat theater that still hosts modern performances.
    • Palladius Street: A breathtaking, marble-paved colonnaded thoroughfare lined with ancient shops and intricate mosaics and the columns were discovered exactly where they fell during the earthquake.
    • The Roman Bathhouse: A massive complex complete with underfloor heating systems (hypocausts) where citizens socialized.
  • 📜 Biblical Context: Long before the Romans, this was where the Philistines hung the body of King Saul. It reached its golden architectural heights under Rome, before a catastrophic earthquake completely leveled the city in 749 CE.

Pro-Tip for your Itinerary: If your travel plans allow, consider crossing into neighboring Jordan, which also holds a number of Decapolis cities, perhaps the most famous and best-preserved is Gerasa , modern Jerash, which is just a 1-hour drive across the border from Israel and an absolute must-see for Roman history enthusiasts.

Comprehensive Travel Guide to Israel with travel to Jordan

Client was a professional level photographer who wanted to experience the history and unique flora and fauna on this visit to Israel with an side trip to Jordan. He emailed me with a list of the sites on their bucket list and I built the itinerary from there.

  • √ Jerusalem (enough days to get a good feel for the city including major Jewish and Christian sites as well as Herodium
  • √ Hula Valley and Eilat area for bird migrations 
  • √ Negev Desert for solitude, scenery & desert mammals – Mitzpe Ramon
  • √ Bahai Gardens in Haifa
  • √ Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Mount of Beatitudes
  • √ Beit Alpha Synagogue
  • √ Masada and Dead Sea
  • √ Petra
  • + and more

Mar 14-15 Arrival & overnight at Tel Aviv hotel [Leonardo]

  • Visit to Caesarea park, aquaduct and Bird mosaic
  • Bahai Gardens (Haifa & Akko)
  • Akko; dinner at Uri Buri!
  • Overnight in Akko [Alma]

Mar 16

  • Rosh Hanikra & coast sunrise
  • Akko tour: Crusader city; Al Jazzar mosque; Hamam; Templar tunnel; Ramhal synagogue!
  • Drive to Agamon HaHula (birds at sunset)
  • Overnight [Vibe Naftali]

Mar 17

  • + Chastellet (Jacob’s Ford), Crusader fortress on Golan
  • + Gadot Lookout War Memorial
  • Nimrod fortress
  • Banias falls
  • + Lupines
  • + Saar falls
  • Overnight [Kinar]

Mar 18 Full Moon

  • + Archeology museum in Katzrin
  • Gamla & Griffon vultures
  • Mount of Beatitudes
  • Capernaum
  • Sea of Galilee
  • – Bet Alpha synagogue
  • Drive to Jerusalem [3 Arches]

Mar 19 Shabbat

  • Israel museum
  • + Old City tour

Mar 20

  • Temple Mount
  • Lions Gate
  • Golden gate
  • Gethsemane & Church of Agony
  • Kidron valley to City of David
  • + Western Wall Great Bridge tour

Mar 21

  • + Katisma church
  • Herodium
  • + Wadi Qelt, St George monastery
  • + Hisham’s Palace, Jericho
  • driving down to Dead Sea for sunset
  • 2 nights [Ganim, En Boqeq]

Mar 22

  • Photoshoot at sunrise
  • Masada & museum
  • – En Gedi (hiking) in afternoon
  • Float in Dead Sea   

 Mar 23

  • Moa fortress on Spice route; winery?
  • Judean palm trees from 2,000 year old seeds at Kibbutz Ketura
  • Hai Bar     
  • Timna park
  • + Hidden valley
  • + Eilat Bird sanctuary
  • Overnight [Soleil hotel]

Mar 24

  • + Eilat bird sanctuary
  • Cross to Jordan (3+ days)
  • Drive to Dana BioSphere Reserve w Ali
  • hike of reserve w Ahmed
  • Overnight [Dana Guest House]

Mar 25

  • Walk around Dana
  • + Frosted trees at high elevation
  • Little Petra/Baydeh
  • + Neolithic site
  • + Petra museum
  • Overnight [Amra Palace hotel]

Mar 26 Shabbat

  • Petra tour w Prof. Sami El Hasanat
  • + Temple; Petra church
  • Wadi Rum jeep tour w Mohammed
  • + Star gazing
  • Overnight [el Sultanah Beduin camp, Wadi Rum]

Mar 27

  • cross back to Israel from Jordan
  • + Underwater Observatory, Eilat
  • Red Canyon hike
  • Pundak Smadar
  • Drive to Mitzpe Ramon & 2 nights [Ibex ]

Mar 28

  • + wildflowers along <171> to Loz cisterns
  • + Hemed cistern and Nabatean terraces
  • + Bio Ramon
  • Makhtesh Ramon: Carpentry, colored sands, old quarry

Mar 29

  • + Avdat
  • En Avdat reserve; saw Egyptian vultures on their migration
  • + Beersheva
  • + Covid test
  • drive to Jerusalem [Villa Brown, Greek Colony]
  • Israel Museum

Mar 30 Drive clients to airport

Coastline series

Please share this post with your friends on social media.

This is the latest addition to Coastline (set of 12 so 2 more to go), coast at Dor with the remains of the harbor and a mock-up (courtesy Kuala) of how it might look on the wall.

In addition to the Coastline series as a 12-piece limited edition boxed set (US$1500) the photographs are available individually (in 2 sizes, 36x45cm US$125 and 46x70cm US$250). To order Contact me.


Text and photographs on this website are © Shmuel Browns

Through the Lens, Dead Sea

Israel consists of a very broad range of geography: coast, desert, mountains, forests, in a very small area making it a great photo location for those interested in nature and landscape. The Dead Sea is an incredible and unique place to photograph, at the lowest point on earth, part of the Great African Rift valley, in the crack in the earth’s crust created when Asia and Africa were torn apart five million years ago.

If you’re into photography and want to make that part of your Israel experience you need a guide who is also a photographer. I am delighted to announce that I am offering personalized photography tours of Israel (along with tours focussed on history, archaeology, religion and more), to enable you to get the photographs you’re looking for.

Here are some of my photographs from a photoshoot that I did with clients starting at sunrise at the Dead Sea.

 

Here’s what the clients said:

We got some amazing sunrise photos at the Dead Sea, we hiked through canyons and got lots of cool shots there, then Shmuel found some unique salt formations back at the Dead Sea. We captured some great photos of sinkholes.

To sum it up this was the highlight of our 17 day trip to Israel. Shmuel delivered beyond our greatest expectations.