Category Archives: Desert

Private Affordable Tours in and around Jerusalem

Here’s a list of special tours that I do in Jerusalem and they are reasonably priced just US $250 per tour, up to 5 people & clients pay their own entrance fees:

  • Navigating Jerusalem’s Old City
  • Crusaders in Jerusalem
  • Architecture of Antonio Barluzzi’s Amazing Churches
  • Temple Mount/Haram el Sharif
  • King David’s city – Jerusalem 3000 years ago
  • Photographing Jerusalem
  • Israel’s World-class Museum (with me as your guide)

These 5 half day tours are not far from Jerusalem, about 1/2 hour drive and transportation is charged at $50, up to 3 people:

New Discoveries at Cemetery at Qumran

What do we know about the ancient cemetery associated with the community at Qumran?

The cemetery was first excavated by the archaeologist Roland de Vaux, who excavated the Qumran site and caves from 1949-1956. Over time, more and more graves excavated by past expeditions were discovered. Recently, when it was decided to open new access paths in the national park, a new excavation was conducted led by Evgeny Aharonovich from the Staff Officer for Archaeology/SOA (note, Qumran is located in the West Bank, the archaeologist works for SOA->unit within Civil Administration->under COGAT->under Israel Defence Ministry). Its results and significance were presented at the recent conference “Archaeology and Site Conservation in Judea and Samaria”.

First, there is a question and debate over the nature of the Qumran site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. The consensus is that the scrolls were written by a group that called itself “Yahad,” which lived a highly rigid communal and ascetic lifestyle, and believed in a cataclysmic war between the Sons of Light (them) against the Sons of Darkness (not them), during which they planned to take over the Temple in Jerusalem and reconstitute a new Judaism. Actually all the scrolls were found in caves around the site and not at the site itself – in fact it is estimated that the site could not accommodate more than a few dozen people. Judging by the large number of scrolls, more than 930 and small number of people we can ask what is the connection between the site and the scrolls? And who are the people who wrote them?

Twin Caves at Qumran

There are four other theories: 1) Qumran was a secular winter estate for a wealthy family from Jerusalem, 2) site served primarily as a Hasmonean or Roman military outpost guarding the borders, 3) an industrial hub, serving as an agricultural date-palm or even afarsimon estate and a regional commercial pottery facility, over 1,000 intact ceramic vessels were found—including bowls, plates, drinking cups, jugs, and cooking pots 4) the 900+ scrolls suggest a broad national collection. the rescued contents of archives from the Temple in Jerusalem. Other objects that were found include over 1,200 coins spanning from the Hasmonean period (130 BCE) through the Jewish Revolt (68 CE), including a notable hoard of silver Tyrian shekels; tiny Phylacteries; the Copper Scroll found in Cave 3, a mysterious treasure map listing 64 underground hiding locations across Israel filled with gold and silver temple artifacts;

Copper Scroll on display at Jordan Museum, Amman

Since the days of Prof. Sukenik, who deciphered the first scrolls discovered by Beduin shepherds and sold to a shoemaker and antiquities dealer Kando in Bethlehem there were researchers who identified the people of the “Yahad” with the Essenes described by Josephus. Among the Essenes there were no women—people joined the Essenes when they grew weary of the sinful life of the world. On the other hand, the scrolls actually deal extensively with women.

From this excavation of the cemetery we learn that this is a planned cemetery, the area is 2.5 times the size of the inhabited site, the graves are arranged in straight rows. In the past, excavations in the cemetery did not successfully separate the “original” graves from the graves of the Bedouins who continued to bury in the cemetery making it more difficult to identify.

Aharonovich was able to show the characteristic type of the Qumran grave—a sort of small “chamber” located at the bottom of a shaft. Rock piles (cairns/tumuli) were erected above the shaft. In one of the graves, the excavators even discovered a deceased individual who was interred inside a wooden coffin at the bottom of a shaft. Granted, the coffin itself was not found—but the wooden nails that connected the parts of the coffin were discovered on site. Where did the wood come from? After all, there is no suitable material in the vicinity of Qumran. Even stranger, the remains of a metal lock and door hinges were also discovered in that same coffin.

Researchers found that there are graves where several people were buried together. And here is the most fascinating twist: out of 35 skeletons discovered during thislatest excavation, 31 skeletons were definitively identified as male skeletons, only one skeleton as female—this isupports the sectarian nature of the Qumran settlement. The gender distribution matches the historical description by Josephus, according to which women were not allowed to join the group.

An explanation must still be sought for the appearance of that single deceased female discovered in the new excavation. And also for 15 additional women identified in previous excavations dating back to the days of de Vaux. Researchers’ conclusion is that since men constitute the majority (about 85%) of those buried in the cemetery, it appears that the site was populated by males and likely a religious, ascetic sect. Anyone among Qumran researchers who continue to hold the view that the site was not the home of a sect will now have to work very hard to explain this definitive data on the gender distribution in the cemetery.


Archaeological discoveries over the years strongly suggest the presence of women at the site—the following items were found in graves of women: earrings, bead necklaces and anklets, rings and pendants; spindle whorl for spinning wool or flax into thread was found within the Qumran settlement—a domestic task traditionally associated with women in the ancient Near East; small cosmetic and perfume bottles (unguentaria) were recovered from the site, these were heavily associated with women’s grooming and purification rituals In Second Temple Judea.

Capturing Israel: The Ultimate 5-Day Photo Safari Itinerary

Are you looking for a destination that packs dramatic desert landscapes, lush wetlands, and world-class wildlife photography into a single work week? Look no further than Israel.

As a licensed tour guide and photographer, I am constantly amazed by the sheer density of visual stories this country offers. Nestled along the Syrian-African Rift Valley, Israel serves as a global superhighway for avian migration. Twice a year, over 500 million birds pass through our skies. Combined with geological wonders found nowhere else on earth, it is a dream canvas for landscape and wildlife photographers alike.

If you have clients eager to capture raw nature, raptors, and massive flocks of water birds, here is my curated, 5-day photography expedition blueprint.

Day 1: The Surreal Salt of the Dead Sea

  • The Landscape: Crystalline salt formations, turquoise waters, and dramatic sinkholes.
  • The Wildlife: Look up to find the desert-dwelling Nubian Ibex navigating the cliffs, and listen for the distinct call of Tristram’s Starlings.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: The Dead Sea is changing rapidly. Accessing the most photogenic, geometric salt formations requires deep local knowledge of safe, accessible paths. Plan for a sunrise shoot when the light reflects off the water like a mirror.

Day 2: The Mighty Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon)

  • The Landscape: This is not a meteor crater or a volcanic remnant—it is a makhtesh, a rare geological landform created by erosion, unique to the Negev Desert. The multicolored rock strata offer endless wide-angle opportunities.
  • The Wildlife: The sheer cliffs of the crater are thermal updraft highways for majestic raptors. Keep your telephoto lens ready for Griffon Vultures, Bonelli’s Eagles, and Lanner Falcons.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: Set up your group at the crater rim during the late afternoon. The golden hour illuminates the red and orange sandstone walls, while raptors glide effortlessly at eye level.

Day 3: Avian Extravaganza at Agamon Hula

  • The Landscape: A lush, green wetland basin surrounded by the rising peaks of the Galilee and the Golan Heights.
  • The Wildlife: This is the crown jewel for bird photographers. Depending on the season, you will face tens of thousands of Common Cranes, Great White Pelicans, and massive varieties of large water birds, alongside hunting raptors like the Greater Spotted Eagle.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: Book the specialized “Photographer’s Wagon” well in advance. This hidden mobile blind allows you to pull right into the middle of the feeding cranes at dawn, capturing stunning mist-covered morning takeoffs without disturbing the wildlife.

Day 4: The Hidden Oases of Ein Avdat

  • The Landscape: A deep, winding limestone canyon carved into the Negev Desert, featuring a striking desert waterfall and thriving freshwater pools.
  • The Wildlife: The towering white chalk cliffs serve as crucial nesting grounds for Egyptian Vultures and other birds of prey.
  • Pro-Tip for Guides: This hike offers fantastic opportunities to play with high-contrast photography—the bright sun hitting the white canyon rims against the deep, cool shadows of the gorge creates stunning geometric compositions.

Day 5: Eilat’s Flaming Canyons & Flyways

  • The Landscape: Conclude the tour by contrasting the narrow, swirling red sandstone walls of the Red Canyon with the coastal wetlands of the Eilat Bird Sanctuary.
  • The Wildlife: As the final bottleneck before birds cross the vast Sahara, Eilat is teeming with wading water birds, flamingos, and waves of migrating raptors.

• • Pro-Tip for Guides: Use the early morning light at the salt pools to capture reflections of flamingos and shorebirds, then head to the Red Canyon mid-day when the sun reaches deep into the narrow slots to illuminate the red rock.

Comprehensive Travel Guide to Israel with travel to Jordan

Client was a professional level photographer who wanted to experience the history and unique flora and fauna on this visit to Israel with an side trip to Jordan. He emailed me with a list of the sites on their bucket list and I built the itinerary from there.

  • √ Jerusalem (enough days to get a good feel for the city including major Jewish and Christian sites as well as Herodium
  • √ Hula Valley and Eilat area for bird migrations 
  • √ Negev Desert for solitude, scenery & desert mammals – Mitzpe Ramon
  • √ Bahai Gardens in Haifa
  • √ Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Mount of Beatitudes
  • √ Beit Alpha Synagogue
  • √ Masada and Dead Sea
  • √ Petra
  • + and more

Mar 14-15 Arrival & overnight at Tel Aviv hotel [Leonardo]

  • Visit to Caesarea park, aquaduct and Bird mosaic
  • Bahai Gardens (Haifa & Akko)
  • Akko; dinner at Uri Buri!
  • Overnight in Akko [Alma]

Mar 16

  • Rosh Hanikra & coast sunrise
  • Akko tour: Crusader city; Al Jazzar mosque; Hamam; Templar tunnel; Ramhal synagogue!
  • Drive to Agamon HaHula (birds at sunset)
  • Overnight [Vibe Naftali]

Mar 17

  • + Chastellet (Jacob’s Ford), Crusader fortress on Golan
  • + Gadot Lookout War Memorial
  • Nimrod fortress
  • Banias falls
  • + Lupines
  • + Saar falls
  • Overnight [Kinar]

Mar 18 Full Moon

  • + Archeology museum in Katzrin
  • Gamla & Griffon vultures
  • Mount of Beatitudes
  • Capernaum
  • Sea of Galilee
  • – Bet Alpha synagogue
  • Drive to Jerusalem [3 Arches]

Mar 19 Shabbat

  • Israel museum
  • + Old City tour

Mar 20

  • Temple Mount
  • Lions Gate
  • Golden gate
  • Gethsemane & Church of Agony
  • Kidron valley to City of David
  • + Western Wall Great Bridge tour

Mar 21

  • + Katisma church
  • Herodium
  • + Wadi Qelt, St George monastery
  • + Hisham’s Palace, Jericho
  • driving down to Dead Sea for sunset
  • 2 nights [Ganim, En Boqeq]

Mar 22

  • Photoshoot at sunrise
  • Masada & museum
  • – En Gedi (hiking) in afternoon
  • Float in Dead Sea   

 Mar 23

  • Moa fortress on Spice route; winery?
  • Judean palm trees from 2,000 year old seeds at Kibbutz Ketura
  • Hai Bar     
  • Timna park
  • + Hidden valley
  • + Eilat Bird sanctuary
  • Overnight [Soleil hotel]

Mar 24

  • + Eilat bird sanctuary
  • Cross to Jordan (3+ days)
  • Drive to Dana BioSphere Reserve w Ali
  • hike of reserve w Ahmed
  • Overnight [Dana Guest House]

Mar 25

  • Walk around Dana
  • + Frosted trees at high elevation
  • Little Petra/Baydeh
  • + Neolithic site
  • + Petra museum
  • Overnight [Amra Palace hotel]

Mar 26 Shabbat

  • Petra tour w Prof. Sami El Hasanat
  • + Temple; Petra church
  • Wadi Rum jeep tour w Mohammed
  • + Star gazing
  • Overnight [el Sultanah Beduin camp, Wadi Rum]

Mar 27

  • cross back to Israel from Jordan
  • + Underwater Observatory, Eilat
  • Red Canyon hike
  • Pundak Smadar
  • Drive to Mitzpe Ramon & 2 nights [Ibex ]

Mar 28

  • + wildflowers along <171> to Loz cisterns
  • + Hemed cistern and Nabatean terraces
  • + Bio Ramon
  • Makhtesh Ramon: Carpentry, colored sands, old quarry

Mar 29

  • + Avdat
  • En Avdat reserve; saw Egyptian vultures on their migration
  • + Beersheva
  • + Covid test
  • drive to Jerusalem [Villa Brown, Greek Colony]
  • Israel Museum

Mar 30 Drive clients to airport

Through the Lens, Dead Sea

Israel consists of a very broad range of geography: coast, desert, mountains, forests, in a very small area making it a great photo location for those interested in nature and landscape. The Dead Sea is an incredible and unique place to photograph, at the lowest point on earth, part of the Great African Rift valley, in the crack in the earth’s crust created when Asia and Africa were torn apart five million years ago.

If you’re into photography and want to make that part of your Israel experience you need a guide who is also a photographer. I am delighted to announce that I am offering personalized photography tours of Israel (along with tours focussed on history, archaeology, religion and more), to enable you to get the photographs you’re looking for.

Here are some of my photographs from a photoshoot that I did with clients starting at sunrise at the Dead Sea.

 

Here’s what the clients said:

We got some amazing sunrise photos at the Dead Sea, we hiked through canyons and got lots of cool shots there, then Shmuel found some unique salt formations back at the Dead Sea. We captured some great photos of sinkholes.

To sum it up this was the highlight of our 17 day trip to Israel. Shmuel delivered beyond our greatest expectations.

One shot, two ways

When you’re taking photographs and looking for the best shot you have a choice of whether to shoot the scene in landscape (horizontally) or portrait (vertically). When looking at landscape photographs you usually expect the scene to be horizontal. Sometimes a vertical shot gives a very different view.

I was driving down to the Dead Sea to take clients for a hike in Nahal Arugot to the Hidden Waterfall and we were talking about desert, water and sinkholes. Since they were also interested in photography I decided we should stop to explore and photograph some sinkholes I’d seen near the checkpoint.

Sinkhole at Dead Sea, Israel

Sinkhole at Dead Sea, Israel

I took the same shot, two ways. Photographs were taken on November 2, 2017 with a Nikon 5300 DSLR camera with 18-200mm zoom lens. Technical details – ISO 250,  F11, 1/500 sec, the horizontal photo, 24mm, the vertical one 20mm.

If you’re interested in having a guide who also knows where to take you for some great photographs contact me.

Photographs on this website are © Shmuel Browns (unless marked otherwise).