Category Archives: Hiking

Hike Sea to Sea

Israel packs a lot into a small country, mountains, desert, coast, forests (over the past 100 years, the Jewish National Fund has planted over 240 million trees and in fact, Israel is the only country that entered the 21st century with a net gain in its number of trees). There are 4 seas, the Mediterranean, Red, Dead and the Sea of Galilee (at 209 m below sea level, the lowest fresh-water lake in the world), in Hebrew, the Kinneret.

Because Israel is small, it’s possible to hike the width of the country in a few days, from sea to sea, yam l’yam, from the Mediterranean to the Sea of Galilee.

Mediterranean Sea

Coastline of Mediterranean Sea

Kineret Sea of Galilee

Overlooking the Kinneret, Sea of Galilee

There are even rituals to perform, you start and end by immersing all or part of your body in each sea and you carry some water with you from one sea which you pour into the other sea when you arrive.

The hike starts at Achziv, follows Nahal Kziv past the Crusader Montfort Castle, Ein Tamir and on to the Druze village of Horpish. From there we join the Israel Trail, past Har Meron to Nahal Amud. We climb to Mizpe Yamim with a view of the Mediterrranean Sea from whence we came and below us the Sea of Galilee where we will end our hike. This hike takes 3 to 4 days, accommodation can be arranged at Bed & Breakfasts along the route.

You can also hike or drive between the other seas: 2) from the Red Sea at Eilat, along the southern part of the 940 km. Israel Trail to the area of the Dead Sea, 3) from the Mediterranean to the Dead Sea, 4) follow the Great Rift valley and drive between the Dead Sea and the Kinneret. Before you do, you might want to read Haim Watzman’s personal account in his recent book, A Crack in the Earth: A Journey up Israel’s Rift Valley:

“This rift is one of the globe’s largest features, clearly visible from space, and I live on its edge. It forms an intricate landscape that makes the human soul turn end over end in wonder…”

Hike above Bab el Wad

We’ve just passed Tu B’Shvat, the New Year of the Trees – the almond trees are blossoming in the hills of Jerusalem. There’s a special hike in the Masger reserve, overlooking the road to Jerusalem above Bab el Wad, the gorge that marks the entrance to the hills that leads to the city. We should remember that in 1948, the convoys of trucks carrying food for the inhabitants of Jerusalem were attacked along this road and Israelis lost their lives. Just like in the Haim Gouri poem, Bab el Wad, the cyclamen and anemones were blooming.

יום אביב יבוא ורקפות תפרחנה,
אודם כלנית בהר ובמורד.

באב אל וואד
לנצח זכור נא את שמותינו,
באב אל וואד בדרך אל העיר.

A spring day will come, the cyclamens will bloom,
Red of anemone on the mountain and on the slope.

Bab-el-wad,
Do remember our names forever,
Bab-el-wad on the way to the City.
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To hear Shlomo Gronich singing Bab el Wad and see some film footage from the 1948 War of Independence check out this URL on YouTube.

Dead Sea: Hiking Nahal Zohar

Friends have told me that they’ve already had snow and that it’s bitter cold in Ottawa, Canada (where I grew up) but here in Israel the weather is fantastic, sunny and in the 70s. It’s great weather to go hiking and yesterday I hiked Nahal Zohar. Since it is at the southern end of the Dead Sea it takes longer to drive there from Jerusalem, about 2 hours, than the hike I posted 2 weeks ago, starting at Qumran. The hike took us 5 hours at a leisurely pace including a stop for lunch.

The hike can be walked in either direction – this time we did it from the lookout on the Sodom-Arava Road to the Dead Sea, you come out of the wadi near the hotels at Ein Boqeq.

View of Nahal Zohar and where we started our hike

View of Nahal Zohar and where we started our hike

Nahal Zohar was used as early as Israelite times 7th C BCE and during Roman-Byzantine times as a way to carry products from the Dead Sea: salt, asphalt, afarsimon perfume and dates to ports on the Mediterranean coast, Gaza and Ashkelon. In order to safeguard the way and collect the appropriate custom taxes there were forts, the remains of which can be seen today.

Remains of Byzantine fortress in Nahal Zohar with water system

Remains of Byzantine fortress in Nahal Zohar with water system

canyon-pool

Pool in rock, Nahal Rom

From Nahal Zohar we switched into Nahal Yizrakh and then Nahal Rom, the last part of the hike through a very lovely canyon with Acacia trees and pools of water.

Dead Sea: Hiking and Qumran

For a great day trip from Jerusalem visit the archaeological site at Qumran in the Judean desert. It takes just ½ hour by car to travel the 42 km from Jerusalem and descend the 1170 meters to the northern shore of the Dead Sea. Another option is to take a jeep ride across the desert to the site. Qumran is where scrolls written on parchment were discovered in a cave by Beduin shepherds. Take a guided tour of the site to learn who lived at Qumran, how they were able to live in such an isolated place in the desert without a natural source of water and how they supported themselves.

The settlement at Qumran is named after the wadi (stream bed) that during the winter rainy season brings flood waters via channels to the pools and cisterns dug at Qumran. There is a nice hike in Wadi Qumran where you climb up to the top of the cliffs, along the plateau with great views of the Dead Sea and descend at Ein Feshka – the whole trek takes about 4 hours and can be done by families.

Hiking at Qumran

Hiking up above Wadi Qumran and the Dead Sea.

Hiking Qumran cliffs

Hiking the cliffs above Wadi Qumran with Sumsum.

Complete your day back in Jerusalem by visiting the Shrine of the Book at the Israel Museum to see the Dead Sea Scrolls and other artifacts discovered at Qumran. As your guide I will point out the conceptual design of the building by Kresler and Bartok, described as “a milestone in the history of world architecture”. The combination of experiencing the Qumran site and the very special artifacts discovered there on display at the museum is the key to understanding this historical period.